But It’s Nowhere Near the Farmers’ and Artisans’ Markets
We’re going to be living in Chicago for a month this summer, so we checked out the place we’ll be subletting while we were in town this weekend. It’s a four-bedroom in an old beautiful building less than a block away from the University of Chicago campus with two bathrooms, huge windows in every room and pristine hardwood floors. The rent, which we’re told is fairly typical for the area: $415 per person.
F*ck you!
posted by Eric on May 17th, 2005 at 1:53 pmJust curious — typical for a sublet or typical for a full renter?
I’ve known friends who were grad students and summer subletted a giant room in one of those A2 houses off campus a bit for $100/month. Granted, that’s cheap, but there’s often a big difference between paying a sublet and paying rent.
Rent in Ann Arbor is absolutely ridiculous, but I’ve not heard glowing things about Chicago prices either.
posted by Evan on May 17th, 2005 at 3:06 pmYou have to remember, the area around the university of chicago is aproximately the ghetto. You could also shout and people could hear you in Hammond and perhaps even Gary, Indiana. Point being, it is not prime real estate and you will be very far from the rest of chicago.
posted by AS on May 17th, 2005 at 3:16 pmExcuse me, have you BEEN there, AS? The campus is surrounded by gorgeous Victorians. Outside of that, the neighborhood gets less ritzy, but it’s gentryifying rapidly. And the drive to downtown — what, 15 minutes? Geez.
posted by Mike on May 17th, 2005 at 3:38 pmI used to live in Chicago (till about three years ago) and would bet that this bargain apartment is going for a cheaper sublet price. And while I like Hyde Park a lot, it’s no garden spot, and tends to be cheaper than a lot of other decent neighborhoods. Are you south of 59th St? West of campus? Those would defintely be less-desirable areas.
Try getting an apartment closer to DePaul or Northwestern (a fairer comparison to Ann Arbor) and you’ll see some sticker shock.
posted by mj on May 17th, 2005 at 3:49 pmI decided not to attend the University of Chicago after the grad students went around telling their “my car got stolen/my apartment got broken into, but it’s not that bad” stories.
And the arrogance there was FAR more prominent than anything I’d ever seen in Ann Arbor.
posted by RDS on May 17th, 2005 at 4:04 pm$415 is the total rent that the person I’m subletting from would normally pay. Yeah, it’s not the safest neighborhood, but it is beautiful and we’re talking less than a block from campus. If I were actually moving back to Chicago and I didn’t care how close I was to the university, there are other places I could live that are just as cheap and safer (Andersonville?)
posted by ann arbor is overrated on May 17th, 2005 at 4:05 pmI lived in Hyde Park for 7 years, so I may very well might have lived (or at the very least had sex) in that very apartment, AAiO! It is a great neighborhood - although there isn’t much entertainment and it is a pain in the ass to get to the North Side, Hyde Park is NOT the ghetto. Go west or south a mile from the U of C and you’ll be in ghetto (Englewood or Woodlawn areas). So long as you’re above the midway or east of Cottage Grove you’ll be okay. The most beautiful part I think is around Kenwood and 57th Street - right by the Coop Bookstore.
In my time in Hyde Park, I never spent more than $450 a month on rent. And that apartment was a 2nd floor of a 3 floor brownstone, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, dining room, living room, sun porch, Chicago back porch (you know - the wooden back porches, one of which collaspes every summer crushing UIC or Depaul students who put too many kegs on them). Chicago has great prices if you’re willing to avoid the trixie areas like Lincoln Park.
Too bad Chicago pulled from the big ten in the 1930s or we’d have been kicking Michigan’s ass all these years. I would have liked that.
posted by DrMandrake on May 17th, 2005 at 4:08 pmBut the most obvious question is this…WHAT WILL WE DO WITHOUT AAiO FOR ONE MONTH!?!? The thought is depressing!
posted by DrMandrake on May 17th, 2005 at 4:20 pmRents in Chicago have been more reasonable than in Ann Arbor for years, apparently. When I was a college student and looking to move from AA to Chicago after graduation, all of my friends had nicer apartments that were either the same as what I was paying in Ann Arbor in very cool neighborhoods, or cost less.
posted by Anna on May 17th, 2005 at 4:24 pmI also might be moving down to Chicago from about mid-June till fall. Does anyone have a lead on a sublet?
posted by John on May 17th, 2005 at 4:25 pmJohn - Go to the University of Chicago website’s student section where they have a message board-like thing and post that you are looking for a sublet - I am not sure of the exact URL, but type in the search engine for uchicago.edu “hyde park sublet mesaageboard” -
Many people leave town in the summer to do research or summer abroad programs that there are tons and tons of apartments for this time that students want to unload at any price - and school doesn’t start there until october (trimesters) so you can probably find one through Sept.
Hyde Park isn’t like our shitty town - where you have to start looking for a place in October! That’s ridiculous - and that’s Michigan for you.
posted by DrMandrake on May 17th, 2005 at 4:40 pmAndersonville is THE place to move if you happen to be lesbian: It is the girlstown of Chicago. However, it is an artsy area full of nice bars (the best in Chicago - Hopleaf, is at Foster and Clark, the best jazz club - Green Mill, is right at the edge of Andersonville at Wilson and Halstead?), restaurants, and the best play in Chicago “Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind” at the neofuturearium (Foster and Ashland). Andersonville is great for a lot of reasons, but if you depend upon the EL system, it is a longish walk to the red line. But a very easy bus ride to Wrigley Field.
posted by DrMandrake on May 17th, 2005 at 4:46 pmRegarding the area around U-Chicago and nice victorians: Detroit’s got plenty of great old architecture, and rent’s pretty cheap there for a reason.
That said, I hope to make my next home there. I have a few friends who have some stunningly beautiful homes in decent neighborhoods.
posted by Evan on May 17th, 2005 at 9:42 pmAnd apparently, Andersonville also has lots of great local busineses, and almost no chains, for those of you who care about that. A friend of mine runs the neighborhood chamber of commerce, which was one of the instigators of an economic impact study about the impact of local vs. chain businesses (in an effort to make the economic case for some public policy decisions limiting chains or chain-happy development). It’s at http://www.civiceconomics.com/Andersonville/AndersonvilleSummary.pdf, and has some good info about the Andersonville area in general as well.
posted by Lisa on May 17th, 2005 at 10:39 pmi spent my childhood living in hyde park and the south side of chicago until i moved to ann arbor in 1988. i moved back to chicago almost a year ago, and i still have fewer complaints about chicago than i do about ann arbor. some things come with the territory of living in a large city. of course they are talking about raising the fares and decreasing the the already crappy service. if you are going to be dependent on public transportation, i would suggest visiting wwww.transitchicago.com, to help you make up your mind about your living situation. also check out the chicago reader’s website www.chireader.com for apartments.
posted by maia on May 17th, 2005 at 10:52 pmTo underscore maia’s point about the CTA….
Unless state funding comes through, they are talking about increasing fares, cutting many routes, layoffs, and reducing service to Sunday levels outside of rush hour.
The last time I was down in Hyhde Park, it looked like the “Lucky Strike” (northside bowling alley/bar) had opened something up on campus. For the non-U-of-C-student — correct me if I’m wrong — Jimmy’s Woodlawn Tap is the only bar in the area.
There are the beginnings of a nightlife in Bridgeview and Pilsen, and some on the Near South Side. The North Side still has more of a nightlife.
BTW, where are the off-campus, non-Starbucks coffee shops in Hyde Park?
posted by A Different Jon on May 18th, 2005 at 5:15 amJon -
Jimmies is one of the few bars down there - but it is a great bar. I used to sit at the same table that Saul Bellow and Allen Bloom always sat at. Of course, Lucky Strike is open to all, not just students. One of the greatest dive bars is in Hyde Park - the Cove, right by the “Point” prominade on 55th and Everett. There is a hidden bar, in the bottom of the Ida Noyes building, called the Pub - it is members only, but you only need to pay 5 dollars a year for membership (nominal fee for tax purposes, I guess). And unfortunately, there is now a bar louie (chain bar/restaurant) right across the street from the Cove. FInally, there is a ghettoish bar I never went to on 53rd street next to a restaurant called Cholies that has something of a reputation of being a black gay bar. The U of C tried to get rid of all the bars in Jyde Park in the 1960s by buying property - now they are trying to liven up the neighborhood into a North Side clone by promoting such growth, all the while, raising rents to kick the poor (read: minorities) into the ghettos surrounding Chicago. It is a shame: If you want Evanston, fucking go to Northwestern.
Off-campus starbucks? Why do that when you can get a great cup of coffee at the Medici, right on 57th and Kenwood? But there is a new Starbucks at 55th and Woodlown, right next to Jimmies.
Thanks for making me miss Chicago today.
posted by DrMandrake on May 18th, 2005 at 7:41 amMaia, The real question is how is the state of the MIM scene in Chicago?
posted by Anna on May 18th, 2005 at 8:11 amChicagoisoverrated.com is available for registration.
posted by Joe on May 18th, 2005 at 10:20 amThe Hop Leaf rules.
Evan — the problem with Detroit is, whatever you save in rent or mortgage you more than pay for in auto insurance, unless you lie about your home address. Well, okay, there are many other problems with Detroit, but I agree with you about the architecture and whatnot. Even in its “aftermath of a terrible war” stage, Detroit has a lot of charm and beauty… and sadness.
posted by Dave on May 18th, 2005 at 10:47 amto anna:
the MIM scene?
posted by maia on May 18th, 2005 at 12:17 pmWeren’t you a Maoist back in the day? Maybe I’m thinking of a different Maia.
posted by Anna on May 18th, 2005 at 3:59 pmno, i’m a different maia studying fashion design in chicago.
posted by maia on May 18th, 2005 at 4:43 pmMaoist fashion design?
posted by js on May 19th, 2005 at 6:51 amMandrake –
I’ve been down to the U of C for lectures and performances and they’ve been hospitable. Are you certain it’s okay for someone with no connection to the university (e.g. me) to be on campus for the sole purpose of drinking alcohol? In the sense that the administration or campus security wouldn’t give me the boot for trespassing.
BTW, the neighborhood I mentioned in my previous post should be Bridgeport, not Bridgeview.
(Also, for the record, I did ask about the non-Starbucks coffee shops.)
posted by A Different Jon on May 19th, 2005 at 7:49 amMedici on 57th St is more of a pub/restaurant than a coffee shop, but it was my favorite Hyde Park hangout.
Andersonville just as cheap as Hyde Park? I’d be surprised.
Lincoln Sq used to be a bargain until the late 90’s when Starbucks discovered it. Bridgeport is still fairly affordable and more “real” than the yuppie theme-park neighborhoods of Lincoln Park, Wicker Park, Lincoln Sq, Roscoe Village, etc. Rodgers Park, too…although parking’s a pain in the ass…but it is close to the El.
If you’re not picky about neighborhoods, you can get a better deal in Chicago than in Ann Arbor — there are a lot more apartments to choose from over a much wider area. In the early 90’s I lived in Rogers Park, where I got cheap rent in a neighborhood that was a lot iffy-er than anything you’d find in Ann Arbor. No matter how much a lot of people in Ann Arbor want to compare the two, you really can’t.
posted by mj on May 19th, 2005 at 7:53 amaaio –
There’s going to be a farmers’ market in Daley Plaza on Friday’s (I think) from now through September.
What was left of th Maxwell Street Market (around Halsted) has been relocated farther east so the UIC could develop student housing. The housing looks like condos. There are shops like Jamba Juice and Caribou Coffee in storefronts.
posted by A Different Jon on May 19th, 2005 at 8:05 amMaxwell St Market was moved to Canal St in the early ’90’s. It’s a joke compared to the old market. Maxwell St today is unrecognizable — all new UIC buildings and expensive townhouses, thanks to influence from the mayor’s office. Daley’s work to turn Chicago into the country’s largest suburb marches on…
posted by mj on May 19th, 2005 at 8:25 ammj –
Do you know if the 800 in address = 1 mile conversion is true on the South Side? If so, that would put aaio about 7 miles south of the Loop, still a good distance from the Farmers’ Market.
posted by A Different Jon on May 19th, 2005 at 8:45 amOn the South Side, the 800= 1 mile is true except:
The first mile from Madison south is 12 blocks — to Roosevelt (1200S).
The second mile is ten — to Cermak (2200S). After that, it’s 800 per mile.
But there’s no escaping Farmer’s Markets in Chicago. Many neighborhoods have one. Hyde Park’s is every Thursday from May-to-Oct at 52nd and Harper. Maybe he can do some planning here to stay away from them:
http://www.suntimes.com/special_sections/summer/markets.html
posted by mj on May 19th, 2005 at 1:54 pmJon - Thanks for your points. Yes, the pub would be more than happy to have you as a member - even though it is in a university building, they do not require a student ID, at least the last time I was there. Jimmies though, is the real hang out - and all are welcome there. But I warn you - Hyde Park’s not the place to drink in Chicago.
Non-starbucks - MJ - you might not have been in HP for a year or two perhaps, because Medici opened a little coffee shop next to the med. Not many chairs, but if you just want to grab a coffee, it’s the place to go. The cinnamon rolls and croisants are to die for.
Non-starbucks…Okay…Cobb Coffee Shop is great. In Cobb Hall. The Java House in the Renolds Club is good - but feels like a starbucks. Divinity School Coffee shop - in the basement of the Divinity School - is awesome, “Where God drinks coffee.” The coffee shop on the second floor of the classics building is a great place to pick up neurotic but hot humanities grad students. There is a little coffee shop/danish place near the Coop food store that is nice but has weird hours. Other than that, there are a few coffee stand-like places in different buildings. My suggestion - if you’re a hipster, try Cobb. If you’re a serious academic type, hang out at Divinity. If you like to overhear conversations in ancient Greek, go to the Classics Coffee Shop.
There is a great restaurant in Bridgeport called Lithuanian Healthy Food on Halstead and 35th. Best fucking breakfast.
And Jon - If you want to meet any Hyde Parkers I’d be happy to send you a few emails addresses of cool friends who can give you a tour of hyde park.
posted by DrMandrake on May 19th, 2005 at 8:20 pmI just moved back to A2 last year after a short stint as a PhD student at the U of C in 2004-2004. I got my MA and ran away.
Anyway, for rentals, look at this site. People really use it, and it’s VERY helpful:
http://marketplace.uchicago.edu/
I loved living in HP because it’s beautiful and the people are nice. We did have our car broken into, though. But when we walked out to the car and were standing there sifting through the glass, the people who lived in the house in front of where we parked (total strangers) the car that night came out with a shop-vac and hot chocolate. That’s the kind of place HP is.
The university has a bad rap around the neighborhood that is well deserved. However, HP is quickly becoming gentrified…last year, they opened a Starbucks right next to Jimmy’s (which is WELL populated by obnoxious U of C students) and there were lines going out the door. Sad. Anyway, HP is a great place to live, especially if you have a reliable way to get to the north side every once and awhile.
posted by Anne on May 19th, 2005 at 10:01 pmMandrake –
Thanks for the email offer. Maybe. I’ve got a couple of year+ old invites to Hyde Park to follow through on as it stands.
mj –
Thanks for the address stats. That puts the Hopleaf about 13 miles north of Hyde Park. (Yet both are well wtihin city limits.)
Anyone — How is Owl service on the Garfield bus?
posted by A Different Jon on May 20th, 2005 at 1:24 amYou can probably get the Garfield bus schedule (#55) from transitchicago.com
Mandrake’s right — Medici’s rolls are amazing.
And I recommend “Healthy Food” on Halsted, too. Great grub, nice staff…and “real Chicago,” not the yuppified crap you find in other parts of the city.
Lou Mitchell’s for breakfast, though…at Jackson and Jefferson. Gotta go.
posted by mj on May 20th, 2005 at 10:09 pmOwl Service on 55 is okay - you’ll wait, at most, 30 minutes. Standing at 55 and Garfield after you get off the Red Line at 3:00 AM can be a bit scary, though. I wouldn’t do it without someone else (although usually after the bars close there is a herd of nerdy U of Cers coming back to Hyde Park.
posted by Anonymous on May 21st, 2005 at 7:28 amDetroit had 24 hour bus service when I lived there (notwithstanding that the buses themselves were dirty, noisy, badly maintained, and the published bus schedules were a joke). Since I didn’t have car, I took buses all over town at all hours of day and night. Even at 3am, they were half-full of people.
Nobody ever bothered me, on or off a bus, but then, I look approximately like Shrek with a beard.
posted by Larry Kestenbaum on May 22nd, 2005 at 10:22 amThat’s freakin’ cheap, especially for being right near campus. My roommate’s moving to a further away apartment next year, and she and her friends are paying $600 a month each (there are 3 of them).
For those of you looking for aprtments: I think marketplace.uchicago.edu might have some ads.
I went to high school at Pioneer and now I’m in Chicago for college. For comparison, U of C people (aside from administrators) are a lot less obnoxious about going to U of C than your average Ann Arbor high school kid is about being from Ann Arbor. Your average Ann Arbor kids may like to say they’re liberal, but when it comes down to it, they don’t really like poor people or paying taxes.
posted by Sandra on May 23rd, 2005 at 11:49 pm